Unique Utah!

The Wave in all its glory!

The Annapurna Sanctuary...

These are after all the Himalayas. Here one tends to be guilty of ranting and raving in a rash of almost trite superlatives every few minutes and could be pardoned for it. Several  minutes before touching down at Pokhara, we got a thrilling feel for  the Annapurna massif that loomed outside the window higher than cruising altitude of the tottering  twin otter. From this vantage point, gorgeous corniced ridges, long aretes that separated spectacular glaciers and vast radiant snowfields were clearly visible. Hanging glaciers were precariously perched over cirques and frozen lakes. From the relative safety of our plane it was real easy to chalk out a route through the glaciers to various summits and pretend to be real mountaineering pioneers of unclimbed peaks till turbulence jolted us out of our wishful reveries.

Towering glaciated peaks in every direction

We landed uneventfully without summiting any peak. Pokhara although lower in altitude than Kathmandu and hence warmer is a lot more pleasant to explore with its quieter streets around Lakeside. Small spartan budget hotels line the streets and we quickly settled into one of them for the next three days. We needed the rest after a few action packed weeks in Indonesia. To our delight Deepa's cousin Lakshmi from the Bahamas joined us
 

The indispensable wrist bands

from Kathmandu and we got busy making sure she had all the gear she needed for the hike and a porter cum guide to help with her luggage. Things had changed quite a bit since 1996 when I was last here. A lot more tourists from the sub continent for starters and almost everything sold was fake North Face brought in from neighboring China. Sifting through this shoddy gear was tricky but in the end Lakshmi was all set for the hike to the Annapurna  base camp. We spent the reminder of the time just getting our permits ready, sending emails, writing our wills and just bumming around. At 7am on the 24th April, we caught a cab from Pokhara to Phedi, a 30 minute ride to the trailhead, got our packs out, heaved them on to our backs, adjusted the straps, slathered some sunblock, lengthened our telescopic hiking poles and went shopping. Deepa's eye caught a small shop selling trinkets on the opposite side of the road and decided that Nepali wrist bands would keep us safer, perhaps double up as rappelling ropes in a pinch.We then decided to give the hike a second try and took on the steps at the trail head. It was a stairmaster from hell for the next couple of hours!

Sublime sunrise on Macchapuchre

Nostalgic Java...

Flores and Komodo!

Lombok's treasures

Blissed out in Bali!

  D: On the 31^st of March we flew from Cairns to Darwin and then onwards to Denpasar, Indonesia. We got in at 8:30 pm.  We wasted no time in fleeing the crowded Denpasar and settling into the quaint little town of Ubud.  Ubud is a center for Balinese art and culture and although it does have some western influence, the Hindus of Bali have embraced change and have found creative ways to adapt to the growing number of tourists here.  Unlike the South Bali party areas like Kuta beach, Ubud’s focus remains remarkably on Balinese culture.  Around Ubud are temples, lush rice paddies, and towering coconut trees.  There are number of budget family run inns – a great value for money. Rama and I stayed at Kajeng Bungalows for $25/ night- our  host family was sweet, friendly, and catered to us as if we were family.  We had our own little cottage with an attached bathroom, a  view of the thick rainforest valley,  and a well maintained pool.

The view outside our room.

 

  The fact that Rama could speak Bahasa was a key advantage we had as we could communicate with people beyond simple hellos, thank yous, and goodbyes. Rama’s family moved to Java when he was a little boy and spent much of his childhood days there. Rama always speaks highly of the people here; soft, relatively open-minded, and laid back, Indonesians have a way of tugging at your heart strings.  Things are slower here as they are in places that have an island feel to them… there’s a slower and more powerful rhythm here-   something  soothing and nurturing to the soul- something that is definitely missing in the developed  world where time is money and everybody needs a quick fix.

The outdoor kitchen beyond the lotus pond.

Festivities at Batur temple

Rama and I were touched by the similarities between the Indian and Balinese Hindus.  Hinduism is a way of life rather than a religion and this is best exemplified here in Bali.  95% of Balinese are of Hindu descent.  When the Majapahits evacuated to Bali they took with them their art, literature, music, and culture. The Balinese already had strong religious beliefs and an active cultural life; the new influences were overlaid on existing practices. We found the trinity of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva here as well but unlike India, idols are hardly seen. There are often vacant thrones and empty shrines.  We had the privilege of visiting two amazing temples with Ary, a Balinese man who was kind enough to invite us to tour the temples with him, his family and friends during the festival  season.  The best part about traveling is that when you have an open attitude and live in the moment, the universe has a way of opening itself up to you in wonderful ways.  We casually struck up a conversation with Ary and then ended up spending the entire day with him, in the process experiencing the festival the way a Balinese would experience it. 

Hinduism with a Balinese touch.

Rice fields stretched out all over Bali

We settled down into Bali like locals; we drove scooters and cars through meandering narrow roads in heavy downpours as if we had been there for years.  Ubud  was our base and we drove to various places in North Bali. Every turn greeted us with verdant greenery, stooped farmers hacking away at their crops, temples and volcanoes in the background. Fruit stalls required our frequent attention as we devoured mangustans, jackfruits and guavas rather greedily. Being vegetarian was no problem as we had excellent Balinese food all along the way. The highlight of Bali for us was Danau (lake) Bratan, about three hours north of Ubud- a well kept local secret in the cool highlands . We spent a magical evening on the tiny shores of the lake  we had all to ourselves.  We gawked at the two exquisite temples about a hundred meters away from the shore rising out of the lake. The water had an almost glassy appearance in the fading light and the whole atmosphere oozed of serene beauty.

Heavenly abode on Danau Bratan

R: We reluctantly went back to our room promising to walk back to the shores again for sunrise the next morning. It was surreal. A wispy mist wafted across the lake and as it cleared, there was hardly a ripple;  the reflections of the temples were crystal clear. We headed back to Ubud later casting wistful glances back at the lake and the temples.Our original plans of going to climb Gunung (mount) Agung were thwarted because the mountain was off limits to climbers because of festivities...but Ubud promised to be haven for culture and the arts. Deepa promptly launched herself into a Batik course for a day while I walked around the streets of Ubud chatting with local shopkeepers, sampling pineapple filled buns and tahu with great gusto. Every bite transported me back to my childhood days and reliving them and sharing them with Deepa brought sheer joy. Deepa made me a beautiful Batik cloth with the Balinese 'om' painted on it. We sauntered about  got massages and such till the evening after which we attended the Legong dance where ornate dancers twirled elegantly almost in slow motion. A traditional Balinese dinner with dishes very similar to that served in Kerala promptly put us into peaceful slumber. The next day called for an early start to catch a shuttle to Padangbai and then fast boat to the island of Lombok.

The Great Barrier Reef

D: We flew into Cairns, Australia from Phoenix ( A total of 19 hours of flying time; had to switch planes in LA, Nadi, Fiji, and Sydney and unfortunately nothing eventful like snakes or a hijack ). Utterly exhausted and jet lagged we crashed for a full 12 hours and then a bit more. We had some time the next morning to catch the sunrise and to do a little bit of yoga. You see, being flexible with your travel plans is always a good thing. We rented an underwater camera and then jumped on a diving  boat, the TAKA. I've always wanted to do a live-aboard. Rama got his PADI Open Water Certification with ProDive here at the Great Barrier Reef 10 years ago and lived on a boat then. We did 14 dives (around 3-4 everyday) and didn't really have to worry about anything but diving and having a good time.
     The TAKA was very comfy- we had our own little cabin with an attached toilet and shower.

At the dive deck, getting geared up.

After every dive, Ruben , the master chef,  pulled us aside and presented us with scrumptious meals he had made especially made for us because were one of the only vegetarians on the boat. We felt totally pampered with this kind of attention because we have become quite accustomed to making do with the sides at restaurants everywhere else. We didn't own any diving gear except for our masks and snorkels so we had to rent all of it- this adds to the expense a bit. I must say the Taka staff was extremely well organized, punctual, friendly, and hard working. We felt secure with them; everything just seemed to flow according to plan. I decided to do my Advanced Diver Certification which would certify me to dive at night, do deep dives (up to 30 meters), do a little bit of underwater photography, and be able to navigate.

    Challenger Bay: We set off from Cairns along the Great Barrier Reef and our first stop was Challenger Bay. The water was a comfortable 29 degrees Celsius and the visibility was at least 10-15 meters.We spent some time getting used to being under water after a few months ( the last time we had done any diving was November 2010). It's amazing what you can see underwater in this part of the world; an entire underwater city opens itself up waiting to be explored! We saw a bunch of yellow sweetlips- their bright colors help them blend in better with the coral.

Lighthouse Bommie: Bommie comes from the aboriginal term bombora or pinnacle. We really enjoyed all the bommie exploration on this trip because navigation is rather simple- you just have to go up or down the pinnacle. this leaves a lot of time to just enjoy the awesome life on it; all the different varieties of coral,coral groupers, butterfly fish, unicorn fish, feather stars.

The ubiquitous butterfly fish.

Cod Hole: Further north, we parked the boat for the evening at the Cod Hole. The potato cod is an endangered, native fish in these waters.  Completely harmless and rather dumb-looking, the cod can reach a length of 6.5 feet and can weigh up to 240 pounds! We watched as, Rowie, the trip supervisor, brought out a large tub full of pieces of frozen tuna and presented it to the dominant female. We all planted ourselves in a large circle on the sandy bottom and stared as she gobbled up her meal. She swam in circles around each and everyone of us and soon, a school of fusiliers and a few red bass decided to join the party. Ben, the amazing trip photographer, had a true talent for capturing these moments.After the feed, John, the Advanced course instructor, pulled us aside and we engaged in a few fun peak performance buoyancy exercises. We learned how to float with different weights, played around with hula hoops, and did some headstands.

The gluttonous Cod!

We did a second dive at the Cod Hole: my first night dive. It takes a lot more to adjust your buoyancy at night just because you can’t see much. We used the eerie green glow of the boat’s halogen lights to navigate. The cod has apparently learned to hunt using the light from flashlights. So some of the other divers played God and watched with glee as the ever opportunistic Cod snapped them up in flash.

North Horn/ Shark Feed:  That night we set out for open waters- the Osprey Reef.  Osprey Reef lies on the north-western Queensland Plateau which is a huge submerged platform that was once part of mainland Australia, then separated and subsided. Dotted over the Queensland Plateau are coral atolls. Osprey Reef is one such atoll and the steep walls of this oceanic reef drop more than 1 km into the Queensland Trough which divides the Australian mainland from the plateau.  We did our first deep dive here ( 30 meters). Colors are absorbed differently at this depth so bright red looks purple.  We brought down with us a tomato and some eggs too demonstrate some of these different properties.  Everything is compressed down there so egg yolks don't disintegrate but float around intact and we played catch with them! Soon we were surrounded by a school of red bass who took the opportunity to gobble up the yolks.

    Our second dive in this area  was action-packed- the shark feed! Our guides drilled holes into large chunks of frozen tuna and threaded large mental chain through them. They then lowered it slowly into the water onto the reef about forty feet below. We all took our seats in a coral amphitheater and watched as more than 40 sharks swarmed the tuna.  There were whitetip reef sharks and oceanic white tip sharks and grey nurse sharks..and they  were all strikingly close to us but completely disinterested in us.  All they cared about was grabbing their share of the tuna. They ravenously attacked their food for a good 15-20 minutes until all of it was gone… there were other fish that tried to participate in the feast but couldn’t get a share…until the very end; the last piece of the prize was snatched up by a potato cod when there was a lull in the frenzy.  A grey nurse shark did try to chase the cod down but it was too late and shark feed was over.  Ben, as crazy and fearless as he is, got right up in the sharks’ faces with the camera.  This was by far Rama’s favorite dive. 

A majestic reef shark!

Juan & Emelie with their cozy campervan.

Cypress Hill:  We then set out for Cypress Hill. We hooked up with another couple on the boat, Juan and Emelie. Juan is from Colombia and Emilie, from France. They met when Juan took part in a kite- flying competition in Emelie’s town in France (Juan was incidentally part of Colombia’ s national kite flying team!).   They had come to Australia four months ago to travel, work, and explore.. she worked as a nanny and he worked as a diving guide as he is quite an experienced diver with more than 300 dives. They often deliberately got lost underwater so that they could go and have a jolly good time by themselves ;)


All four of us had a lot of fun on this dive; we brought down with us an Australian flag and posed for silly pictures.  Rama and I amused ourselves with front and back flips and underwater yoga.

That's us diving down under! 

The Entrance: Huge towering coral walls made navigation a bit tricky here but it was a great experience overall. We saw a moray eel and a couple of sharks.  It’s a very humbling experience to look out into the blue waters and find all of a sudden, a shark swimming towards you.  You feel very vulnerable, clumsy and tiny. But guess what, there are better things for the shark to do than be worried about you.

Steve’s Bommie:  We motored back towards what turned out to be one of my favorite reef sites.  A diver named Steve passed away in a motorcycle accident ( yes , on land) and his friends and family contacted the Marine Park Service and the name of the site was then changed to Steve’s Bommie in his honor.  This underwater pinnacle is an absolute haven for a myriad of different creatures. Our second dive was my absolute favorite. Rama filmed me as I chased a large school of yellow fusiliers around. It was extremely comfortable, we did not need to get very deep to see all the amazing life all around us. We found a variety of different nemos!  Iif the real life cycle of the clown fish (nemo) was made into a movie it would involve sex change, incest, and abandonment- a blockbuster plot!  I finished my underwater photography portion of the course here at Steve’s bommie. 

 Nemo- a true clownfish that is simply a delight to watch as it coyly darts in and out of the anemone.

2 and2/3rds:  Next up,   the navigation portion of the course.  We paired up and tried a few exercises of trying to find the boat and trying to come back to the same spot  using our compasses.  Rama teamed up with Scott and Stephanie while I was busy with my drills.

Beer Garden:  Our last night dive on this trip was at Beer Garden.  Rama and I decided to go on our own for this one. We saw a beautiful puffer fish and tried to find the turtles.  I had to surface within 30 minutes though because I had a reverse block ( in my ear) and got a bit dizzy, but turned out just fine after a few minutes.

Norman Reef:  Our last day on the boat- it was all over so fast.  The last two dives on this reef were quite relaxing and we spent a lot of time exploring the coral at around 5-6 meters. This gave us plenty of time, probably because I was more relaxed. I tried going through a relatively small cave for the first time.

What a wonderful trip overall! We caught with the crew and other friends from the boat for dinner at the Green Ant Pub in Cairns that night.  Cairns is crazy expensive- 30 dollar sangrias and 27 dollar fajitas (not our cup of tea). We were tuckered after dinner, had a flight to catch to Bali the next morning and so dove into bed- that was our last dive in Cairns with colorful dreams of exquisite corals and dancing fish like the one below!

Gorgeous colors galore!